Batad, Philippines

Not much has changed in Batad since we first went there in 2000. There is now electricity in the village and the road to the Saddle is open (sometimes) to 4 wheel drives. It is possible to get a jeepney from Banaue to take you all the way to the top, but not down the other side. This cuts the walk by more than a half. Janet and I have been to Batad countless times and enjoy it just as much each time. Except for the price changes, the rest of our original article below remains unchanged........

People's restaurant is a good place to meet guides for walking in the area around Batad and Banaue. It is possible to organize one to seven day mountain treks from this Banaue hub. John and I are not hikers as such, but have met many people who are and the walks in this area are apparently very beautiful. If you plan to go to Batad by the most direct route a guide is not required - very easy - only one way to get there.

Public transport passing the Batad junction

A stroll through the terraces with Derick

On the way to the waterfall

Janet's Batad watercolour

View from bedroom window at Hillside Inn

Tappia Falls

View over Batad from Hillside Inn

On an occasion when we did require a guide, a fellow called Derick Gano was very good - a character indeed. Of course with Derick, the drinks are on you, but that probably applies to all of the guides. He was extremely knowledgeable of the terrain and people who live there. Apparently he is able to accompany you on extensive walks, sometimes over many days through this fabulous mountain terrain. To quote an Email from a couple who were in Batad in January 2004, "....he doesn't come cheap nowadays. But a character so bubbly, a hell of a guitar player with the voice too (heard him sing "When tomorrow never comes"?), a buddy, a tour guide and an entertainer rolled into one, I think it's worth it."

Allow two hours or more for the drive to the Batad Junction where you set off on foot. If there is just one or two people and not much the luggage you can take a tricycle to the junction. It will cost you about 500 pesos for the round trip as the driver will come back to pick you up at the prearranged time. It is wise to pay the driver for only one way at a time. Paying for the return trip as well does not guarantee he will be there when you need him. If there are more than two of you, a private jeepney can be arranged. The return trip will cost 700 to 1000 pesos. These guys are canny and will work hard to get you to pay the whole amount at once. This would be folly of the highest order. John worked hard to have them except for hundred pesos down and 300 pesos on return. Of course, the jeepney did not come back to get us. We had no trouble getting back and laughed at the predictability of it. There are lots of public jeepneys and buses plying this route and the occasional tricycle, so you can never truly be stranded. When you get to the junction, the walk to Batad will take about 2 hours, plus or minus depending on your fitness. Do not plan the walk to coincide with the middle of the day - it can get very hot. Half of the distance is up, the other half, down. At the top there is a place to rest and have a drink, so don't lose heart. Whatever you do, whatever level of fitness, go through with it. It takes me longer than most people and I like to have someone carry my things. It is always worth it.

Take bottles of water to drink and a small towel for the inevitable brow mopping. You will need a wide brimmed hat, effective sunscreen and an umbrella for the sun or rain. Backpacks are best, though it is often easy to ask a man to carry your things to the village if he is going that way, which he would be. We have resorted to this on occasion and have always found the carrier and the bags at the top of the hill, or already waiting for me at the hotel, depending on the arrangement.. Wonderful service. A payment of appreciation is in order - perhaps 100 pesos or more for a larger load. A road is currently under construction to the top of the hill which has many plusses and minuses. Up till now, going to Batad has been restricted to those who can do the climb and there are not too many of those. However, one must go back the other way on the way back and there is no way to avoid that climb. I have seen the porters carrying children, which is worth considering if you have a young family. It would be possible to arrange a person or persons to accompany you and look after the children during the climbs, etc, if you decided to stay. Opportunities to make some income are eagerly accepted, so you could ask at the Hillside. This sort of thing is best to arrange in Batad, within the local community – people who know everything there is to know about Batad. There are lots of children around, as the school is on the hillside close to the top, where you will be. There are lots of steps and lots of different ways to go, so do take a guide.

Evenings at the Hill side Inn can be wonderful, especially if you or someone else picks up the guitar that always seems to be around, somewhere. Everyone sings along, drinks (on you, if possible) and the guitar circulates for hours around the ever willing hosts and players. Have fun if you are up - these people are joyful and gracious hosts and like nothing more than a party of song and laughter and drinking. Four of us set an all-time record for spending on a night like this - and had the pleasure of being sung to and we had an evening that none of us will ever forget, for the fun, sharing, laughter and innocence of communing with our fellows in Paradise.

There are many places to stay in Batad. Just down the hill a little from the Hill Side Inn is the Batad woodcarver and his wife who is a teacher in the local school. They run the Batad Pension and Guesthouse and would provide guests with enlightened conversation and knowledge of this most wonderful community. John and I plan to stay there some time. There is also Rita’s, further up the Hill, which I have looked at (very nice too), and a guesthouses in the heart of Batad village, in the valley below. Take your pick. Each one would offer a unique flavor and experience of its own. Wherever you stay in Batad you will be able to find someone to show you around. A guide is essential for traversing the rice fields and village, which has no roads, so you must walk through the gardens and along the walls of the residences. With a local person leading you, the socially appropriate behavior and manners will make your presence less obtrusive. Flashing around with a camera may not be appropriate in the village, but the guide will be your best bet for advice on this. Be sensitive about this sort of thing at all times. John and I play safe and will photograph people only when a real willingness and invitation is expressed. These are the best photos anyway because one of us is usually in the picture as well.

Tappia Falls - The waterfall is spectacular. Take your swimmers and indulge in a dip in the frigid waters. Be prepared for a vigorous climb. A guide is essential.

The village is a wonderful place but do be aware of any invasion of privacy. People visiting this area are walking through the village on a daily basis, traversing gardens and home compounds.

If you plan to stay in Batad, we recommend two nights at least. Recently I spent 8 days there on a painting trip and it was eight days in heaven-on-earth as far as I was concerned. Being a part of the community life there was a real privilege – such peaceful and gentle people. I spent the time in the Hillside Inn and was looked after like one of the family. Very nice. The day in between will give you time to go to the village and waterfall, or rest up in the most beautiful visual setting in preparation for the return walk. It has been known for people to walk to Batad, visit the waterfall, then return to Banaue the same day. We have never done this and definitely never will. Batad is a place to reflect, gaze, wonder at the beauty of it all and bask in the pleasure of having such a place on this earth. More than two nights is luxury of the highest order.

Essential stuff – Sun and insect protection. We burn mozzie coils – there is no fly screen on the windows or mosquito netting on the bed. If you have room in your pack, a double bed mosquito net would be a luxury well worth indulging in. It is not that there are lots of bitey things, but there are some. Light, loose clothing is best for daytime and walking – especially something that protects you from sunburn – and something just a little warmer for nights on the balcony, like a shawl, sarong or light sweater for the shoulders. Rinsing out t-shirts is not a problem. A sarong to wear on the dash to and from the bathroom is always a good idea, as is the compulsory wearing of rubber thongs while in the bathroom, at all times for all things. These are best for hanging around the pension, cool and versatile. For walking, good strong non-slip (in mud, wet ground, wet stones etc) sandals are good or light weight canvas lace-ups. The canvas shoes are in many ways better, but they must be light, as must the socks.

Back to Banaue – with luck, your pre-arranged ride back will be waiting for you. One of the tricycle drivers we had actually set off up the hill to meet us. 2 hours later you will be taking a refreshing bath and changing in to clean clothes in your reserved hotel room. Off to Peoples for a beer, snack and rest, stay in Banaue for the night, then you are ready to continue on to Bontoc and Sagada, or back to Manila.